Thursday, March 27, 2014

Cuba Final thoughts

Just a few final thoughts on Cuba:

The transport never failed to entertain us in one way or another, Varadero is full of tourist targeted vehicles, this includes immaculately kept 1950’s cars were the outside as well as the inside are beautiful and these are used as Taxi’s along with cars that look like they are Model T Fords, they are actually some sort of replica but still pretty.  We were told by a Cuba that some of the well maintain cars are worth $40,000-$50,000.

Lovely Cheryl posing by lovely car

Loved seeing this pink Cadillac outside the local burger van 

Not quite a Model T Ford but looks fun
The horse and carts troll up and down the main strip, these are the pretty carts where the passengers sit on comfy seats facing each other not the more interesting local carriages which have benches running down the sides these are still used by the locals as taxis.  In the town bicycles taxis are also widely used by the locals, it was great to see them all waiting at the central transport hub.
Cars, horse and carts and bike taxis all waiting for passengers

So many horse and cars
There are still lots of old 1950’s cars on the road but funny that you see them with tied down boots or doors that don’t shut and if you drive at night do not expect these to have any lights but cars are still a rarity outside of the more touristy areas and large towns.  Cubans mainly use public transport which come in various forms and mainly people stick there thumb out and hope for a lift, can you imagine having to do this everyday to get to and from work.  The trucks and transport vehicles are used between the larger towns and villages but there is little comfort.  You also can’t imagine the fumes from the traffic in Cuba, we often rode our bikes locally, you came back filthy and often with a sore throat from inhaling the smog.

This is a local bus filled with locals

Waiting to board the bus

Another bus, we have seen these crammed full of workers in the mornings going into Varadero

It was great to see and for us it made us appreciate what we have at home when you have your own car to drive to work, yes you have the massively frustrating traffic but you can get there without having to rely on other and the public transport available is much more luxurious!

Politics – On leaving Cuba people constantly want to understand more about how people live in Cuba, the effect of the relationship with the US, how and when it will change.  Many of these points we just can’t answer but by visiting Cuba you do get a better view on how the long term politics in the country have affected the Cuban people both now and in the future.  It is difficult to explain how you feel about things that you see as an injustice or the inconsistency of the every day living in Cuba, these best way is to provide some example.  You visit Varadero and other tourist areas and the locals expect you to have you hand in your pocket all the time, whether that is using the toilets in a local building, parking a scooter at the side of the road where the local cars do not pay, giving you directions if you have taken a wrong turn or generally tipping for service, and yes many of these things you would be happy to pay for if they suddenly didn’t look at you like a bottomless wallet or refuse when you offer them less that they expect – 1 CUC to use the bathroom is only the equivalent to 60p UK/ 1US$ but when you know the local doctor, vet, trained professional is getting paid 15-30 CUC a month!! Why is the toilet attendant not happy with the 50 peso that you gave her!  You also know that if you visit a bar in Varadero one day you might get charged 1CUC for a beer, the next day it might be 1.50 CUC, yes amazingly cheap and happy to pay 1.50CUC if that is the price but not to think you have just been ripped off, these happens everywhere you go.

So these things do start to irritate after 2 months trying to get to understand the locals and how they live, also the service that is often provided in the tourist areas is nothing special but more frequently outside of the area the locals can be amazingly helpful, generous and welcoming.

The Americans often think that Cuba would change for the better if the embargo was lifted and perhaps it would but things need to change so much more, potentially the Cubans working in the tourist industry would just get more money through tips and everyone else would still remain on the same level of wages. It is difficult to accept that a chambermaid is the richest person in a family when there are others who have spent years at university getting a profession and are then too proud to do a menial job. You hear stories all the time that make you want to know more but you would need to be in Cuba a lot longer that 2 months to really understand how things are, how they have progressed and what the Cubans hope to see change in the future.

Corruption,  just a word of warning to any cruisers who might visit Cuba, yes there is still corruption and people may want you to give them something from your boat or cash but this did not happen at Marina Darsena and the staff her made you feel safe and secure in the marina environment.

Ismelli (might have spent that wrong) the manager of the marina is a genuine and welcoming person that it was sad to say goodbye to, his English was really good and he made life easy for us. The amount of security they have at the marina is ridiculous with possibly 4 people working 24 hours a day which was bit overkill BUT they were all lovely and again made you feel very safe – it was slightly odd at night when we had a security guy sat outside the boat all night!  And to make life even easier for cruisers in Cuba, Debbie Armstrong is a Canadian who has lived in Marina Darsena, in Cuba for over 10 years and just makes the transition so easy by providing you with maps, explaining the currency and generally helping you live if Cuba, just such a generous person.

Ismelli and Mark, couldn't have been nicer
We were sad to say goodbye to Cuba and yes even on the last day when we had to have the coastguard and immigration come to the boat to check up out and ensure we were not smuggling anyone out and were inevitable late and held up our departures, it was still really nice that all the security guards on the night duty came to wave us goodbye along with the coastguard and immigration, we can never say we didn't meet so really lovely people in Cuba, if we ever return I will make sure I make more of an effort with my Spanish – adiós amigos.


Oh one final thought, Rum Yum J

Friday, March 7, 2014

Fantastic Friends

The final few weeks before we left Cuba were still all go although unfortunately Amanda was not well on her birthday so that came and went without celebration.
A week went by with the final few boat jobs and a few visits to the beach but not much else until Cheryl, Paul, Finlay and Molly arrived.  They were staying at the Allegro Occidental hotel in Varadero so we our first get together was at the hotel and yet another over protective hotel where we were not allowed to move from reception.  After almost 3 years of not seeing each other there was lots to catch up on, not least the fact that Paul and Cheryl had moved from the UK to Rhodes at the same time we left on the boat and during this time Finlay had grown from a toddler to a full grown 5 year old! And there was now Molly, how exciting.


So over the next few days hours were spent chatting and more chatting.  We visited the beach in Varadero and also had a trip to the park but the kids were amazingly patient as we just talked and talked.  Finlay loved the fact that he had another child to play with in the sea, Mark is the biggest kid ever and Molly seemed quite happy with her new friends.




Sunday, March 2, 2014

More time at being a tourist in Varadero plus superb diving at Bay of Pigs and another day drinking rum in Havana

We should have been sharing stories of amazing diving in Maria Gorda on the west coast which we had booked between Barry and Moira and the kids arriving but on returning from the hotel Amanda had a severe bout of food poisoning so we could not go away which was very disappointing, so we had 3 days of cleaning, tidying and recovering.

We hired a car to pick up Dan and Abbie from the airport, not very exciting point to share but just a word of warning, the police are often on the look out for an unexpecting tourist, we took a wrong turn at the airport, it was very badly signposted and the police obviously waited at this spot as they knew.  They pulled us and babbled in Spanish, we knew that we had done something wrong, they indicated that it was a 60 CUC fine and it was very serious, you felt like they were going to cart you off to jail! But then suddenly if we paid the 30CUC on the spot they would let us go¸ we had little choice, when you know 30 CUC is a lot more than they get paid for 1 months wages you know it has been their lucky night, as probably every night is as they lie in wait at that junction!  But at least Dan and Abbie did not need to deal with getting a taxi or sitting on a bus for hours after the long journey.


The next few days we spent pottering around Varadero and Santa Marta, visiting the beach and doing our weekly shopping at the market which is always an interesting experience especially with our limited Spanish.

Hussle and bussle buying your onions

Beans and rice

Pineapples one of the best buys  - would cost less that 10 pence
We even hired scooters for a couple of days, one day we headed west from Varadero to Playa Coral where there is some great snorkelling.  At some point it looks like there could have been a restraint and bar on the beach front but that has been derelict for some time but enterprising Cubans sit on the beach offering sunbeds, snorkelling gear or cold beers, it is a little annoying at first but actually they are very nice and up for a bit of bartering and seems not to bother you once they have made you aware of everything on offer.  The snorkelling is wonderful, there is easy access to the beach and you can see plenty of fish without even going outside the reef but if you head out just past the reef there are lots of tangs, parrot fish, sergent majors, wrasse, all sorts of reef fish that are just as interested to see you.  Dan got to try out his new dive camera and took some great photos.



So many blue tangs
Lots of wrasse

It is Mark all the way down there!
Dan looking a little pale in the water
It was nice to have the scooter to buzz around Varadero so Abbie and Dan could see a bit more of the Peninsula, with it over 10 miles long you could easily just see a small area.

Dan on scooter with Varadero egg taxi in background
We had a fun night, off to a good start with Pina Coladas.

Mmmm Pina Colada


Then food at Casa Miel where the food is cheap and reasonably OK, never had carrot or cabbage on a vegetarian pizza before but it was surprisingly good and for 2.70CUC for huge pizza you can’t complain. More rum cocktails at the bar which was good because it was not too long before the very jolly Cuban singer decided Abbie was going to join him on stage.


Dan and Abbie also sampled a Cuban cigar to ensure for an authentic evening.

Dan enjoying Cuban cigar

Abbie enjoying Cuban Cigar
We wanted Dan and Abbie to see a bit more of Cuba so we headed off to Bahia Cochinos, this meant we had to drive for hours through rural Cuba which is great for seeing the horses and carts, bikes everywhere and how people live outside of the tourist area.



We were staying the night at the hotel in the Bay, this is the only hotel and had arrange this directly with the Customer Relations manager we had met when we had popped into the hotel a few weeks earlier, he was exceptionally helpful as were all the staff at the hotel.  BUT the hotel was a bit grotty, the rooms felt dirty, the bed covers were awful, I shower with my flip flops on and we were joined by a cockcrouch plus the food was pretty basic BUT it was cheap 66 CUC all inclusive 2 people for the night.

What was fantastic was the diving which we booked through the hotel, the equipment was all ok, the instructors were very good, it was very cheap at 25CUC a dive and the dive site was beautiful.  We dived on a wreck and a coral wall drop off of 300m.  There were lots of fish but what was particularly memorable was the giant moray eel which they fed, the huge lobsters which were hiding in the rocks, amazing coral, the hundreds of tiny fish on the wreck and the 3 of us being able to share this.

Mark


Moray Eel

Amanda and Mark

Dan


Mark

Parrot fish

Wreck and lots of tiny fish

Lobster

Cool coral
The best bit of the trip for Abbie, along with the all the all inclusive cocktails was the tiny kittens which were living in the hotel.



Our final day with the kids was spent in Havana before dropping them at the airport.    We did all the normal sight seeing around the old town, drank more rum this included freshly pressed sugar cane with rum which almost woke Abbie and Dan up, we admired the lovely cars, we visited the capitol building and Gran Teatro and even had time for a drive along the Malecon where the water was breaking over the sea wall and there were a newly wed couple admiring the views.

Sugar cane and rum - the press is behind Mark's head!

Mark and Dan
A variety of vehicles racing off the lights in Havana 

Another cool car

Enjoying the sunset on their special day

Sunset over the Malecon with waves washing onto the road


How the other half live - the retired

Final few days with Amanda’s mum and dad were spent in the Melia Peninsula hotel, it was a 5* hotel and almost lived up to it but as typical with Cuba it wasn’t quite what you would expect elsewhere in the world but we can’t complain as the beach was amazing, hotel grounds immaculate, the room was nice although possibly not 5*, the food was good enough for us fussy non neat eaters with is a miracle in Cuba with stacks of salad and pasta plus the most amazing flambéed bananas.

Lovely grounds of the hotel

mmmmm Mark enjoying his flambeed banana
We had 2 fantastic trips on the Hobbie Cats, unfortunately you are not allowed out without a guide but we still got wet and had fun, Amanda’s dad even joined on the 2 day, shame we don’t have any photos!  Mark found out he could still windsurf and we established that the people from the watersports centre didn’t really want to do any work so we were lucky to get to do anything.

We all made the most of the all inclusive drinks, more rum sampling with rum punch, mojitos, pina colada and Cuban coffee.

Cuban coffees for Mark, Barry and Moira - Amanda was on a daquari 
We even watched some of the entertainment and is was surprisingly good,  all the dancers are from the hotel and along with the band and singers it was very Cuban, Mark particularly enjoyed the skimpy outfits.


It was soon time for another sad goodbye as mum and dad headed back to the rainy UK.

Back into long trouser and heading for the UK