Monday, July 18, 2011

Windy Welcome to the Algarve

Sines to Lagos (Algarve)

This was our longest passage for a while and a bit daunting as there are no alternative ports on route, just high, daunting looking cliffs. So if it all goes pear shaped or the wind goes silly you are stuck with it.
So it was just Amanda, Mark and Magnum against whatever the Atlantic decided to dish out . . . gulp!
The forecast looked ok but we knew from experience that the wind along this coast is always strongest from 16.00 through to 19.00 and that at the last Atlantic headland, Cabo St Vincent would be stronger still.
We left at 06.00 and motored for the first couple of hours to ensure we kept on schedule for rounding Cabo St Vincent before 16.00. 

An early passage, sunrise of Sines

By 07.30 we had seen 3 different pods of dolphins and the wind had started to arrive. Next few hours we hurtled downwind in brilliant sunshine and crystal clear blue water. After about 8hrs we were within reach of the most SW point of Europe Cape St Vincent and we held our breaths as the wind was still a pleasant 20 knts from directly behind.
As we rounded the Cape Amanda got the video out to record the moment and took a 3 minute video. Just as she was putting the camera away the wind arrived !!!
In about 30 seconds to changed from 20knts to 35knts plus (gale force 8) and we still had full sail up !!!! A few scary moments later and we had furled away the foresail and put 3 reefs in the main, things were now back under semblance of control but we still had 4hrs left to reach a safe port and we had to turn across the wind, which dramatically increased our angle of heal.
The wind settled to around 30knts so we unfurled some of our foresail and had a fast but wet sail into Lagos

A wonky Cape Vincent

Our first views of the windy Algarve

Mark enjoying every minute round Cape Vincent

Getting windy


 Lagos





Lagos was a bit of an unknown for us as we have never been to the Algarve before. It was quite a pleasant surprise, touristy but still with character and loads to do and see. The rock formations along the cliffs are amazing and the locals run tours of all sorts, kayaks, ribs, glass bottom boats, scuba, dolphin watching and just about any method possible to part the tourist from his Euro!!

Imitation Galleon

Glass bottom hydrofoil
The marina was eye wateringly expensive, but the wind was still howling and there appeared to be little in the way of shelter along this bit of coast for us to anchor, so we stayed 2 days (€90+ ouch !!!!)
At that cost we had to leave after day 2 regardless and were just considering our options when Mark bumped into an “English” local. He recommended a small cove not mentioned in our pilot book that would give us good shelter from the northerly gale.
With a small amount of trepidation we set sail and were met with winds gusting 30knts at the harbour entrance. With a small scrap of headsail set we made good speed across the 10 miles to the recommended spot. It didn’t look too good on approach just more spectacular rock formations and lots of white water. As we got closer the headland opened up and we sailed into tranquil, crystal clear waters.

View from the top

Shelter

We snuck in as close to the marked swimming area as we dared, dropped anchor and made ourselves at home for the next 3 nights.
We (Yes Amanda too!!) swam from the boat to the beach, and used the dingy to explore the rocks, caves and secluded beaches.
One beach we visited, which only looked accessible by sea, was beautiful. We loaded our snorkeling gear in the dingy ready for a day sunbathing and playing with the fish. We had just beached the dingy and dragged it clear of the water when Amanda spotted we weren’t alone. There were 2 naked men sunbathing in one corner, unperturbed we donned wetsuits and masks and headed for the water, before we had even got to the water another 2 naked men arrived……..
We had a dull snorkel as the water was too agitated to be clear, so returned to the beach to find it populated by naked men, we had obviously stumbled onto the gay pickup beach and it was starting to feel pretty uncomfortable !! Straight back to the boat for us …………….

Secluded beach

Gay Pride beach just over Marks shoulder

Beach at sunset, water was deeper than I thought hence water line mark on shorts !




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