Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Our Atlantic Crossing

Day 1
Distance to go 2200NM
Position – 16:38.62N 26:48.02W
Daily run 124 NM

We left Mindelo at about 1000, along with many smiles waves and good luck wishes from people we had met since arriving here.

Straight into a NE gale that was being accelerated between the two island, the wind was steady 30 knts with gusts much higher, and the seas were huge. The latest weather forecast didn't show strong winds so it was obviously a local anomaly, but one we could have done without for the first day of our longest passage to date.

Well healed with waves rushing past and Cape Verde in the background - sun shining but wind howling!
The big swells were breaking in patches so Mark had to hand steer for the first 6 hours or so just to keep us safe as neither the windvane or the electronic autopilot could be trusted in potentially boat breaking conditions. After about 7 hours the wind dropped leaving us flopping around in a big swell with little forward motion.

Poor Mark hand steering for hours!
The wind eventually filled in and we were off for our first night at sea.
There were a few other boats that left the same time as us, so it was odd to see other lights around us pretty much all night, comforting though.
So not a pleasant start to our journey as it was pretty scary and uncomfortable, but we are off and things can only get better.

At least it is cosy down below
See video below of us speeding along



Day 2
Position 16:41.99N 29:01.35W
Daily run – 146NM
Air temp – 23c, water 26c
Rough rough rough, that’s the only way to describe the sea state over the past 24hrs, the wind has been between 20 and 30knts and is driving a large swell.

Magnums motion is pretty uncomfortable, but she is happily heading westwards with our windvane steering and little user input required. Speeds have been good which is always good for moral.
Oh and Amanda made some delicious rock cakes with cranberries and white choc chips, even better for moral Smile

The weather files show a strong patch of wind today (sunday) the easing overnight into monday when they will hopefully follow the same script I working with and moderate slightly!

All is good on board, had a visits from a flying fish last night which landed in the cockpit, only about 8 inches long and dead as a dead thing by the time we found it. Burial at sea was a sombre moment.

Our new dead friends

Look how tiny!
Smile for the camera
Day 3
Position 16:37.16N 31:11.35W
Days run 136NM

No blue sky today just wall to wall white cloud. no boats spotted in the last 24hrs and the only living things we have seen are flying fish.

Time is drifting by, boat speed is pretty good, but the weather isnt following the same script as us and the prolonged strong breeze is pushing up a large swell causing a stomach churning roll. The latest weather info shows a slight easing tomorrow, but we will believe it when we see it.

All ok on board, we still have fresh fruit and veg so are eating well even if food pre does require us to be wedged in a tight corner and one handed chopping !

Still a long way to go !  

Day 4 - Happy New Year
Position 16:37.16N 31:11.35W
Daily run – 139NM

Is it really only day 4? Feels like we have been out here a lifetime.

2 days since we spotted another boat and wildlife has been pretty scarce.

We have been filling our time with books, dvd’s and resting. The weather has been a mixed blessing good because we are making pretty good progress despite sailing conservatively but bad because the continued strong winds have stirred up the sea making life on-board very tiring.

Day 5
Position 16:30.62N 33:19.30W
Daily run – 145NM

Overcast with white cloud all day today, still 22deg but we didnt see the sun until it set at about 1800.

Between us we managed to juggle moving pots, pans and vegetables to make a delicious lentil soup for dinner, a mammoth task as nothing can be put down for fear of it escaping onto the floor.
Otherwise an uneventful day, but 145 miles west made good.

Got hit by a squall last night, why do these things always happen in the small hours when making your mind and body do anything is a struggle ? We were ploughing along minding our own business when we got hit by rain and strong winds. Being hit is just what it is like, in the dark you don't see it coming but all of a sudden Magnum is roaring along at 10 knots there is white water everywhere and the noise is incredible, anyway a brief “all hands on deck” moment and we reduced sail and rode out the worst of it. Half hour at most but then Amanda was tucked up in her bed again. 

Waves chasing us!
Day 6
Position – 16:44.81N 37:33.19W
Daily run – 138Nm

Another day of strong winds and big seas. We are making good mileage westward towards the halfway point, but there is still a long way to go.

Squalls on the horizon


Our fresh fruit and veg are now much depleted and what’s left looks a bit worse for wear. We are currently eating out way through a banana feast as all our green ones have ripened at the same time. We still have some potato's, onions and carrots left, so will make sure these get eaten first before we start on the tinned and packet foods. Stuff has lasted pretty well though as some of it was from Tenerife, which seems a lifetime ago now.

All Amanda’s cakes have now been devoured and we were hoping to make some banana muffins, but the sea has been to rough to contemplate a full on baking session.

Still not much sign of life out here, we have seen flying fish and some petrels. 

Day 7
Position – 16:48.66N 39:37.84W
Daily run – 136Nm

Before we left Cape Verde we had many weather discussions with people about to the same as us, the common consensus was that it looked good to go but that we should be prepared for a slow crossing as the winds were forecast to be light for most of the journey.

What a load of rubbish !!! So far not a day has passed when the “high wind alarm” hasn't been screeching its head off at some point of the day or night.

The alarm is generally set at the wind speeds we reef at, so if we have full sail up I set the alarm to 20knts, 1 reef in I change the alarm to 25 knts at which point I put the second reef in and so on.
On this trip it has been set at 30knts all the way and everyday it goes off.....unbelievable.

It should be helping us make some long distances each day, but because it is so strong the sea state is rough and we are having to sail slower than we would like rather than risk breaking something.
Still its warm, we have hazy sunshine and the sea scape surrounding us is amazing.

Day 8
Position – 16:58.42N 41:57.07W
Daily run – 142Nm

Today we crossed an imaginary half way point, good news, and somehow upset King Neptune, bad news.

As you may have gathered , our crossing so far has been rough and windy, but last night it went to a whole new level.

The night started with the wind constantly in the high 20’s (force 7) so we set minimum sail before dark and settled down hoping for a reasonably quite night. Although the wind was strong it was manageable and Mark got some good sleep, we changed watch at 0300 and pretty soon we got hit by a squall. The sky darkened and the wind increased to 38 Knts (force 8) the sea state deteriorated very quickly and soon Mark was hand steering to ensure we didn't get thrown sideways onto a wave, then the rain came.


Mark hand steering in one particularly bad squall 

It lasted about 30 mins and then subsided back to a ‘normal’ force 7. This procedure was then repeated every hour or so for the rest of the night and into the morning.
All very exciting stuff, but Amanda and I have used all our “brave” pills now so would welcome a bit of a respite.
We apologise unreservedly to King Neptune for any past, present or future slight we may have caused.

Day 9
Position – 16:51.95N 44:05.10W
Daily run 136

Strong winds and squalls all day today, but sunny and warm. Daytime temperature is in the low 20’s and the water temp is rising the further west we go, currently 27deg. I guess the warmer water is what is fuelling the showers and squalls.
During the season, this particular bit of the Atlantic is where the hurricanes spawn, there’s a scary thought!

Amazing how the human mind and body can adjust and accept situations, we have had winds over 30 knts and house sized walls of water roaring up behind us for days now, it now seems the norm. Yesterday evening the wind dropped to 24/25knts and the sun shone so we had dinner in the cockpit and both commented how peaceful it seemed! Obviously it wasn't peaceful at all but compared to our new “reality” it seemed like a flat calm !

We cracked the 1000 miles to go barrier today so hopefully it will be good for moral seeing that number fall.

We are both tired now as even normal tasks seem to require superhuman effort, but we are in good sprits and are able to swing around the boat from, handhold to handhold like a pair of gibbons.
Haven't seen another boat for days now and the nearest land is 1000 miles away. we are both very aware of that fact and are taking all measures to keep ourselves and Magnum safe.

Day 10
Position – 16:47.19N 46:16.38W
Days run 138Nm

Another day of strong winds, today they are accompanied by grey skys and ominous black thunderhead clouds.

Less than 900 miles to go.

Click on the video clip below to see us speeding along!


Day 11
Position – 16:46.02N 48:27.10W
Days run – 131Nm

Today we are both shattered, worn down by lack of sleep, the motion of the boat and the howling of the wind. We both needed to get some rest, so in an attempt to change the motion I took down all sail and rigged a tiny storm sail.

Magnums tiny storm sail


This reduced our sail area from a max. of 80m squared to about 7m squared. It had a dramatic effect, Magnum only slowed slightly but is now riding the waves with a much gentler motion and we are no longer taking waves onboard. Blissfully we both managed to get some proper food and a few hours sleep.

Last night was a blowy one with squall after squall hitting us, along with heavy rain and a night as dark as a cave. All rope handling was done by feel alone and great care was taken to ensure our harnesses were clipped to something solid. Despite the unpleasant night, with our new tiny sail pulling hard everything seemed safer and more undercontrol, Magnum was no longer surging forwards like a wounded elephant everytime a wave overtook us she just gently lifted and allowed the walls of water to pass underneath us.
We still have a few days out here so hopefully wind and swell will abate at some time, but for now we are comfortable and moving in the right direction.


Day 12
Position – 16:45.16N 50:45.74W
Days run 140Nm

At last !
The wind moderated, the sun came out and we had a whole afternoon barrelling downwind with barely any rolling, why couldn’t we have had conditions like this all the way ?

Wow the sun is shining

It only lasted for a few hours and then night fell along with the usual succession of squalls, it was good for moral while it lasted though.
We treated ourselves to vanilla angel delight for pud as well just as the sun set....yum!

Day 13
position 16:22.89N 52:54.82W
Days run – 139Nm

Usual day wind F6/7 all day with accompanying swell, so good progress during daylight hours. Then as darkness fell the wind gathered strength and we suffered a bit of a nasty one, very glad to see sunrise.

The nights are so long at this time of year, we have little moon at the moment and mostly cloudy nights, which makes it pitch black and a bit disorientating on deck. We have come to loath sunsets and live for sunrise, its amazing how the rising sun can restore our flagging moral.

Noticed that our batteries were running a bit low in the small hours, which is unusual as we tow a generator behind the boat which puts out a lot of current all the time we are moving. A quick check showed that the generator shaft was no longer turning, we had got some abandoned fishing net wrapped around the prop, simple fix 2 mins with a dive knife and all was good to go.

Under 500 to go now.............................   

Day 14
Position – 16:20.36N 55:00.27W
Daily run – 136Nm
Air temp = 25.8 Sea temp 27.8

Hectic day filled with sail changes due to squalls.

Just to brighten our day though we had visits from 2 different groups of dolphins, they didn’t care about the weather they just wanted to play in our bow wave. According to our book they were Atlantic spotted dolphins, imaginative name for dolphins found the the Atlantic that have spots!
Lentil stew for dinner, Watched the last episode of Gavin and Stacy, nothing else to report........

Day 15
Position – 16:20.58N 57:11.94W
Day run – 140Nm
At last a whole day of steady F5 easterly “trade winds”, these are the conditions that were forecast and that we should expect this time of year. Lovely sailing, no sail changes, moderate following sea and sunshine.

  
Racing along, shame no photos of the dolphins
Lets hope they hold for the next few days. About 200 miles to go so thoughts turning towards making landfall now.
Sods law that after all this time we might reach Guadeloupe in the small hours, very little moon at the moment so we will have to monitor our progress and decide weather to approach in the dark or slow our approach so that we arrive in daylight.
Horrible decision to make because we both just want to get there now!

Day 16

Position – 16:16.19N 59:23.83W
Days run – 126Nm
Sun, light wind and calm seas.......wooooosh are we there yet ?

Day 17 and 18
Position – 16:13.26N 61:31.77W
Days run – Don’t care

As always the law of sod meant that the last 48hrs were as hard as the first.
1st the wind changed direction, so instead of blowing from directly behind it swung so that we were sailing hard into it, not quite having to tack but it meant Magnum was healed over at an uncomfortable angle and the motion of bashing into the waves sent spray flying. It was pretty demoralising when the realisation hit that we had another 100+ miles to cover like that.

It also meant that we were sailing slower so our expected time of arrival moved to after dark. We were so desperate to get there that we did consider a night pilotage exercise amongst the coral reefs, but common sense soon dictated that we reduce sail, slow down and deal with another night at sea. Massive disappointment.

You cant imagine the frustration of being able to see your destination but not being able to go there. We spent about 8 hours drifting along waiting for sun rise and ensuring we kept enough sea room from anything dangerous.

Anyway none of that matters as we DID IT !! After years of planning and preparing Magnum we finally crossed an ocean on our own in our little boat.......amazing.

Guadeloupe is not far now!
Yep we look weather beaten and pretty awful but we have done it!


The volcano and rainforests of Guadeloupe are there in the distance

Note: For those of you who have been following us on our Mail a Sail blog which we have used on passage this is the same text but with added photos/videos which we are not able to do at sea, now we hope to have wifi we will use this our original blog but will continue to plot our position on the Mail a Sail and use when we are at sea for longer durations - http://blog.mailasail.com/svmagnum

1 comment:

  1. I haven't been in to check your blog in a while ... what a pleasant surprise to find you'd not only set off but survived the trip. Very well done !

    ReplyDelete