Dodging the coral heads all the way to crystal clear waters of the Exumas

On leaving Nassau the weather had settled so we headed only a few miles out to Atol Island and were already into the shallow waters which makes the Bahamas a challenge when you have a deep boat like Magnum.   Once the day tripper boats had all headed back to Nassau to the night we had a lovely calm and peaceful night.

The next day we were to sail to the Exumas through waters where eyeball navigation is critical, this basically means one of you standing on deck shouting at the other which way to steer and the other not hearing and shouting back at you, a sure way for a relaxing sail!  There were areas on this route where this navigation went on for miles so it was slow going but very necessary and we did have navigate around various coral heads but they were easier to spot than expected, as our friend Jay explained “they are the size of a sunken boat with a ring of light sand around them” and this is what we found.

It was fantastic to arrive into Highbourne Cay and call up Jay on Kenlanu, we had last seen him in Lake Worth over 2 months ago, what was even more fantastic was Jay had prepared dinner for us, so we just had to drop anchor, have a wash and grab the rum.  We spent a lovely evening with Jay with too much to talk about and lots of wine and rum to consume.

The next day we looked at the weather forecast and we were already looking at the next cold front forming and arriving in the next few days, this very sadly meant we had to head south and leave Jay, we had thought we would have at least been able to repay the dinner invitation.  With us all feeling a little jaded we headed off for a morning snorkel just north of Highbourne Cay, there were some great corals, lots of reef fish and we were stalked by a scary Barracuda.  We then waved goodbye to Jay as he thought on his long trip back up through the Bahamas and up the East coast of the States to Maine.

Kenlanu

So next stop for us was Hawkesbill Cay, this is in the Exuma Land and Sea Park which is owned by the Bahamas National Trust.  This is one of the most beautiful locations which we have been lucky enough to visit, the water is crystal clear, the sand is pristine, there are little birds hopping around the shore and old conch shells washed up on the beach.  After an amazingly silent night at anchor we had the beach to ourselves during our morning walk and swim.

Amanda on beach at Hawkesbill

Mark at Hawkesbill

Conch shell no longer occupied on beach

Magnum at anchor at Hawkesbill

We only had the morning to relax at Hawkesbill and with light winds we upped anchor and motor sailed south to Warderick Wells.  This 20 miles passage was quite relaxing apart from the last 5 miles where we had to navigate through the shallows, all would have been fine apart from our paper and electronic charts differed and although we were told that the paper charts were the more accurate which meant we would be fine and there was plenty of water it was still nerve racking manoeuvring through water which on the electronic chart was too shallow.

We safe picked up out buoy in Warderick Wells and settled in for what we knew was going to be at least a few days with a cold front bringing strong winds.  Warderick Wells is the headquarters of the Land and Sea Park so there is a small office and there are various walking trials around the island.  We had a lovely time walking trial to the Sounds side of the island and watching the waves crashing on the beach.  Many of the paths are over porous rock, through palm woods or along the beautiful beaches.  We often saw no-one else walking and were alone on the beautiful beaches to have a quick dip to cool off. 

Mark enjoying our own private beach

Magnum moored in Warderick Wells

Views over Warderick Wells

Wonderful views from Warderick Wells

Another private beach for us to enjoy

We enjoyed swimming off the beaches in the shallows but also there is some great snorkelling, we even swam with a nurse shark and a lemon shark! Plus a huge lobster that must have been 2ft long. 

Curly Tail lizards enjoying a bit of biscuit!

Bahamian Mocking Bird

 We enjoyed swimming off the beaches in the shallows but also there is some great snorkelling, we even swam with a nurse shark and a lemon shark! Plus a huge lobster that must have been 2ft long. 

Nassau Grouper

Gray Angel Fish

Nurse Shark quietly laying on the bottom

Monster lobster with his little fishy friend

We stayed on our buoy for 6 nights waiting for the weather to pass but were lucky that we could get off the boat most days but when we were stuck on the boat we made the most of the time making fresh bread and cakes.